Kilimanjaro - The Machame Route - 5 Dec 2009

On Kilimanjaro with the Bowen's

Guide
Ake Lindstrom

Guests
The Bowens! Note that first names have been removed for privacy reasons (hence references are made to ‘Mum’, ‘Dad’ and other references to the kids, apologies if this confuses things a little!).

Summary
A very successful trip, 100% success in returning safely! 3 made it to the top and one made it to 4,800 meters before being turned around for safety reasons. I’ve never had someone puke so much and make it to the top (from the start and so not quite as bizarre as it sounds). The banter, silent banter and crew singing were all very memorable indeed! Well done all.

4 Dec 09
Landed!
After 27 or so hours the Bowens finally arrived at Arusha airport where Clemence transferred them over to the Arusha Coffee Lodge. This is where I first met the Bowens – slightly dazed and ready for a rest. So, no in depth briefings tonight, time to relax and try to sleep.

5 Dec 09
The first day is always a wake up call
Starting altitude: 1,800 meters
Ending altitude: 3,000 meters

In the morning I headed over to meet the climbers at the Arusha Coffee Lodge and we had a briefing. Thankfully they had been prepared well (thanks to Epic Expeditions) and so looking through the route and final preparations did not take long.

Soon we were off from Arusha on route to Machame and the journey took around 2 hours. The gate had the normal down time as the equipment was weighed, the porters checked in and so on. By around 11.30am we were on trail, a quick intro to the crew just after the gate and we sauntered on up the trail. Lunch was had relatively early on as our departure time was relatively late and then the rest of the day we headed up the mountain slowly gaining altitude. The rain started and this is where our umbrellas came in handy (almost everyone we tell to bring umbrellas still scoffs them off but they’re the best!).

This zone is known as the afromontane zone, and is a haven for bio diversity with endemic flora such as the Impatiens kilimanjari and massive trees such as the camphor wood (Ocotea usambarensis). Lichen and mosses lace most of the branches and almost every level of the forest is occupied by some type of vegetation.

On arrival into camp the crew sang us in, a pleasant end to the hiking and a great way to distract people from any tired feelings! Everyone settled into camp and Elo showed everyone the toilet operation.

Dinner served up by Ngamu our camp crew with Jackson the cook working hard to keep gluten away from the meals for Poppy.

6 Dec 09
Into thinish air
Starting altitude: 3,000 meters
Ending altitude: 3,860 meters

The second day from Machame camp we ascended to Shira camp, through the heath zone with plentiful ericaceous shrubs up to around 3 meters maximum with patches of moorland, bog-like with pretty yellow flowered Haplocarpha ruepelli and plenty of tussock grasses.

Breakfast was in the mess tent and with some fuel on board we set off up the thinning vegetation layers. There were a couple of dramatic view points and the edge of the Shira plateau with the Shira Catherdral and needle were apparent. The sun was blazing for a while and as one of our intrepid team could not find her sun hat Sam kindly helped fashion a hat from a top. It was not long before the clouds chased us up the mountain and enshrouded us before lunch.

Post lunch the pace was gentle, plenty of time for the girls to don disguises of Old Man’s Beard (Usnea sp.) and by mid afternoon we had cleared the highest point of the day (around 3950 meters) and dropped down into camp. The crew really had their singing voices on today and serenaded us for a number of songs – attracting a number of other guests over from their camps! Hapson lead the songs and Sam ended the vocalizing with his classic ‘piga nzeze’!

New developments at Shira camp were the helipad and ranger station under construction. There are helicopter landing points at almost all the main camps now and a private company in Moshi is operational.. Our emergency evacuation cover will also be able to use these landing points when appropriate, although with our monitoring methodologies I hope that will never be necessary apart from the most unexpected scenarios.

It was becoming apparent by now that one of the team was under relatively more stress due to the thinning air than the others, but with 3 nights to come at similar altitudes there was still a chance of a successful summit bid.

Overnight at Shira camp with some card playing in the afternoon.

7 Dec 09
Walk high, sleep low(er)
Starting altitude: 3,860 meters
Ending altitude: 3,950 meters
MAX altitude: 4,600 meters

From Shira camp we headed up to Lava Tower before descending to Barranco camp. This day is a long day of around 8 hours, rarely less and the high point is often a good indicator as to how people are reacting to the high altitude. That is not to say that everyone that has some symptoms of altitude sickness will have trouble later on but this is certainly a key point for guides to be very alert with their guests to ensure that if necessary, evacuations are done earlier rather than later.

Everyone was in good spirits as we left the camp… The youngest member of the team hit a wall 20 meters from camp… 20 meters!! The problem was soon solved with a chocolate / sugar hit and we continued up the slopes glacial slopes.

The glacial valleys and their associated features are very apparent in this zone. As one heads out of Shira camp the next zone, the alpine desert, becomes apparent very quickly. All the vegetation changes are all controlled by the average amounts of rainfall that fall and as one goes higher so the rainfall drops. This historic relationship has meant that forests have developed below us at the zone where most rainfall falls and higher up the lower rainfall combined with the freezing temperatures at night and blazing sun in the day time all mean less vegetation, and some rather bizarre adaptations for the flora that has made this zone their home. Silvery hairs on leave to reflect excess UV, thick waxy cuticles to minimize water loss, special antifreeze fluid secretions, warm leave cladding on stems and so on are all adaptations to be found here. Even in the most extreme environments life does persist but far less profusely and in cracks and crevices and the best sites being sheltered spots from the biting wind.

Progress to our high point was slow but sure. All of the team slowed before lunch and some large headaches were starting. Sam and I were keeping a close eye on the whole team. Lunch was very welcome and the rest did us all good. By now the weather had closed in although we were able to snatch a glimpse of lava tower through a window in the cloud. After lunch and in the rain, we descended carefully from our high point of 4,600 meters and arrived in camp by nightfall.

8 Dec 09
The Scramble for Karanga!
Starting altitude: 3,950 meters
Ending altitude: 4,080 meters
MAX altitude: 4,226 meters (top of Barranco wall)

The morning at Barranco is stunning. The clouds had cleared and Kibo was out. This valley is the product of 2 different but massively destructive events. The first was a series of glaciations that carved out the valley. The 4th and main glaciation (which waxed and waned from 10 to 70,000 years ago) carved a deep valley all the way down to the 3,000 meter mark. In amongst this there was also the final death throws of Kilimanjaro as Kibo erupted significantly for the last time. Around 60,000 years ago the inner crater group of lavas erupted and it is thought that in conjunction with those eruptions of lava there were associated earthquakes. Due to existing lines of weakness on Kibo’s flanks a massive collapse occurred, forming the dramatic Western breach and Barranco wall. We now started out from camp to climb the Barranco wall.

The Barranco wall is always a great respite to the relatively drudgery of hiking, and with some 3 point contact and dramatic drop offs this was possibly the most fun and exciting part. The ‘hugging’ rock, no guessing required to explain the name, was a highlight and it defies belief how porters with long loads pass around this safely.

A short break at the top of the Barranco wall and then on over the glacial valleys to Karanga valley. We choose the ‘bambi’ route to camp. The crew, helpful as always, relieved us of our packs half way up the Karanga valley and we were in for lunch.

At this point there had been quite a lot of coughing from 2 of the team and so mum was checked by yours truly with a stethoscope to make sure there was no fluid building up in the lungs. The only congestion I heard was in the upper left of her left lung which was definitely better than the alternative (of a cracking or bubbling in the lower lunch fields that might have indicated the onset of a pulmonary edema).

In the afternoon, to avoid sleeping, there was some frantic card playing and in the late afternoon we went for an acclimatization walk a little higher up. Back to camp for dinner and time to relax.

9 Dec 09
The mountain has traps
Starting altitude: 3,950 meters
Ending altitude: 4,600 meters

The hike from Karanga is up, and up and up to Barafu camp. We set off with the sun blazing and with superb views of the southern icefields, which was ideal as the previous day we had been covered in clouds for most of the day. Sam kept a steady pace all the way to the top of the Karanga ridge and there was time for a toilet stop… One of the team found the toilet that many others had found and her shoe found more than she bargained for. Our youngest member was in the vicinity and on witnessing the shoe to poo contact was sick. There was much disgust but more laughter.

On arrival in camp we all signed in and then headed in for some lunch. I had given said youngest some amoxicillin for her dry cough previously and she actually had a little blood in her sputum but her oxygen saturations remained high – a high altitude cough with irritated bronchioles in this case and not more as far as we could ascertain.

The afternoon was spent packing. After an early dinner it was time for a little rest before the summit bid!

10 Dec 09
Adversity
Starting altitude: 4,600 meters
Ending altitude: 3,100 meters
MAX altitude: 5,896.1 meters

The final push. Coming out of Barafu camp is often the hardest part. There is the blocky lava flow right outside camp, which is very energy sapping and tonight as we left camp around 11.45pm the wind was blowing. Our token pukaholic, in true form, puked right by Sam’s tent before we had covered any ground. By now this was accepted as normal. I would have to ask her for a more accurate guestimate but by now I would suggest a figure of around 15 to 20 pukes so far on the trip.

For Mum though, it was a different scenario. After a slow ascent of the lava blocks on route to Kosovo camp it was becoming apparent that her pace was very slow but that was not the key concern. By now her balance was also slightly off, it was time to turn around. Sam and I chatted briefly and Sam rather kindly told Mum that is was time for her daughters to finish the job for her. Well worded and sensitive.

Had Mum started the trip more relaxed and less exhausted I think that she could have made it. A slightly longer trip would also have worked but in essence from talking to her and Dad, she had been working very hard pre arrival and her body simply did not acclimatize well this time. So, it was time to descend. Geofrey and I led her back down to camp from over 4,800 meters and there were points where we really needed to watch out. Back in camp it was time for Mum to rest up and Geofrey’s role was now as monitor which he did very well.

Rather than stay in camp I decided to head back up to join the others, Mum was nice and stable and had a great team to support her in camp. I thought I would catch the group easily but they made fantastic progress and kept ahead of a large group of 30 hikers. At around 5,300 meters I rejoined them and we made our gentle progress up and sure enough the sun started it’s course over the horizon. A little bit of light was very welcome and Dad and oldest daughter were very solid throughout. The youngest has been sick numerous times and Sam led her step by step. Every now and then we would all stop for a refuel – gelly snakes every 50 meters or so kept Poppy going all the way to Stella Point.

Once at Stella I thought for a second that youngest might consider heading down, but no, with encouragement from her dad and sis they all headed all the way to Uhuru peak, arriving around 8.30am. What a bunch of stars! Youngest looked like a zombie at Uhuru and yet as we turned to head down the two youngsters started a snow fight (short lived…)! The change in pace and heart on descend was dramatic, to say the least. At Stella Point we all donned some sunscreen and started our descend to Barafu (I had taken a slight detour to live up to my word to lick the glacier, not too many more years of that sort of behaviour possible before the glaciers disappear for ever). Back in camp we had hoped to see Mum but she had left some hours previously with Geofrey who wanted to make sure she could descend slowly and with plenty of time. A good call.

Back in camp we had a short time to rest, refuel and soon enough we were off down to Mweka. At this point we passed one of the large charity group that had been helped to the summit. He had a pulmonary edema and as the others descended I assessed him using the pulse oximeter and some simple questions. Their oxygen had run out being used on another one of their team and so we left ours and one of our strong porters to help support him in his descent until the rescue stretcher could be located. There really is no substitute for having oxygen for many emergency scenarios and whilst that charity group had at least 4 trip leaders / handlers I wonder what would have become of the gent that we helped it our oxygen had not been available.

Descent is always an anticlimax but the girls banter was great. We arrived into camp at dusk, time for a wash and time to get some well earned rest! Mum was there to meet us and was all smiles for the team.

11 Dec 09
What goes up…
Starting altitude: 3,100 meters
Ending altitude: 1,800 meters

After breakfast our crew sang us the traditional songs and thanks to the Bowens for their generosity in tipping. Dad also donated his jacket and Sam, wise as ever, performed an immediate lottery to whittle down the crew to 1 lucky person by dividing the group until there was just one person left. Try as they might the would be tricksters were eliminated one by one and a porter walked away with a great jacket!

On the way down we had a decent collection of falls on the slippery mud. Top marks to oldest daughter’s bag for saving youngest from any serious injury!

At the road head it was a complete mess as the parks authorities are rebuilding the roads – it will be very good for rescue access in the future though. Back at the gate, congratulations all round and some frantic shoe cleaning from the local lads and after signing out we headed back to Arusha (much eye resting going on) to prepare for the next leg of our adventure!

END OF KILIMANJARO REPORT

Mountain Biking around Kilimanjaro challenge

On the reccie. Found a 500 meter volcanic cone. Drove up it. Lizzy the landy did just fine..

Tanzania Mountain Biking Part III

Terat to Emboreet

Highlights: riding with zebra and wildebeest, open plains, kids at the school, riding bikes with Maasai, serendipitous meeting with Maasai at a boma, range of habitats, thick bush, hard uphill, point to point riding

Distance covered total: 63 km

Distance covered mountain biking: 63 km

Accommodation: lightweight camp like night before

The ride today was superb. Riding with game, riding on wide open plains, then into Emboreet village, then a long uphill through Commiphora woodland, dipping down into thick Acacia – Commiphora, lunch under a massive Acacia tortillis with a hill to grab pictures and views from and then a harsh but pretty uphill all the way to camp. Did I mention the teste flies? No, well there were tseste flies today. Ouch!

Riding in Tanzania there are three major types of experience one might expect to make it different from anywhere else in the world. Views, wildlife, people. Today we had lashings of each and plenty of them.

A few minutes from camp we had reached the Terat plains, well actually they surounded us. Cattle went to water behind us and in front, small herds of wildbeest dotted the plains and now and again zebra too. This is one of the great advantages of this particular route at this time of year – lots of game!

Why is there game here, some 40km as the crow flies from Tarangire National Park? Simple really: food. Out here amonst the grassy plains that afford us stupendous views of Kilimanjaro and Meru, the annual rains afford a great and nutritious crop of grasses. Used by domestic cattle and wildlife alike, this really is a haven. Animals from Tarangire migrate here every rainy season to feed on this rich bounty, and, when the water sources and food sources start to dwindle, they head back to Tarangire. Tarangire has a lifeline in the dry season – a river, a sand river at that, which means that vast volumes of water are held in storage for the long dry season ahead. Elephants are particularly adept at making drinking holes in the sand beds, indeed I have heard it said that they prefer drinking from these pachyderm pawed potholes. Anyhow, back to the plains.

But, this is all in danger of being lost. Population pressure combined with the need for cash has meant that over the last 2 decades the amount of faming in these areas has increased steadily. Despite the fact that farmers only return about 3 good crops every 10 years, the land is still being increasingly turned to till. This means migration corridors are being lost, as are the grazing grounds of both the Maasai cattle and the animals that migrate here.

Well here’s the good news, through the initiative of the Maasai and a group of companies in and around Tarangire, a fund has been put together to pay to one of the villages, Terat, to NOT allow farming on their plains. The companies in Tarangire National Park (and around it) realise that with no feeding and breeding grounds the wildlife stock will suffer, and the Maasai, who know these lands better than anyone, see the value of protecting their precious range lands. Indeed, recently Kenyan cattle had been trucked in, yes trucked in to these areas, and so the value of open grazing grounds has been painfully obvious to the local Maasai. So, this is the ‘stop-gap’ solution. Easement payments to villages to keep farming out in favour of simply leaving the land as it is and managing it in a traditional way. The group of companies has also raised money this year and hopes to expand the initiative to another village thereby increasing the area preserved dramatically. But, as we saw ahead, the corridors are still under threat.

As we cycled along great tracks we eventually came into Emboreet village land and here the farming is apparent, as is the wildlife, rather dramatically standing out on the plains as the farms slowly spring up around them. Will this corridor be saved in years to come? Only time, and strong village leadership combined with the resources of those that believe in preserving a more traditional way of pastoral lifestyle, can change the direction of what is happening here now.

And on we went, stopping at a limestone hill (which had metamorphed somewhat, possibly pressure or heat or some combination, and possibly indicative of sea cover in long past years, although lake bed also presents as an option) and then down down into Emboreet village. Kids everywhere coming out of school and boy do they love the mountain bikes! We pushed on pretty quickly before the ladies had a chance to alight straight into a long uphill. Gunnar and Peter L immediately broke into an uphill race to my shouts of “there are buffalo in those woodlands ahead!” and a Maasai on a single gear Phoenix bike smoked us all! The woodland was unusual. Lots of Commiphora, big Commiphora unlike I have ever experienced, and plenty of Erythrina (bussei?) in flower too. Breaking through the tree line we passed a Maasai boma – Pete K couldn’t resist lending out his bike to a moran from the boma. And on into the bush once more, red soils, black cotton soils, thick bush, Acacia nubica and then tortillis woodlands. Very close to Oldonyo Nabpe we stopped.

Lunch under a big tree. Nothing better. Acacia tortillis is commonly known as the umbrella thorn, rightly so – it makes for sun shade. Rolls tables and chairs popped up, thanks to our helpful crew, and we had a light lunch of salads, sandwhiches and fruit. Great cheese too – made in Maasailand. My Maasai shuka, which doubles as my sleeping bag, emergency blanket and now nap throw, came out and Peter L and yours truly had a bit of shut eye.

As the heat abated just a tad we set off once more. Really nasty grasses here by the way, they dig into shoes and socks mercylessly until they finally hit flesh. Ow! Best remember gaitors next time. Once riding it was not a problem and we rolled on, up and down, across dried up rivers and around hills. Pretty vistas of pristine bush were a real highlight BUT THE TSETES were horrendous. It was only a day later when I figured out they hate freshly applied sunscreen, and so, in the meantime, we all suffered in silence. Some not in so much silence to be honest.

The final 10km turned into 15km of uphill. What an uphill. Not some brutal short slog to a summit, but a long unabating pedal bashing all the way to camp. I definitely could have stopped a while ago but we all finally peddled into camp for a rehydrate and rest.

Mawe camp / rock camp: stunning little camp. Ancient crystalline rocks make up this part of Tanzania, and in fact much of the central part of Tanzania. All of this is igneous – pertaining to fire. Always loved that description. Subterrain events where magma had forced it way upwards into country rock had left massive domes of silica rich plumes. As the land around, softer than these intrusives, eroded away over millions of years so these harder rocks have become exposed, leaving a rich mosaic of hills, perfect for our camp, perfect for a sundowner! The whole team, after showers and plenty of water, headed up to the edge of our rocky outcrop. Heather, 83 years and going very strong, led the way, and as the sun set we enjoyed a beer. What a day.

Next day, tsetses, elephant damage, poachers, game, waterholes and game drives!

Tanzania Mountain Biking Safari - Part II

Usa River to Terat Plains

 

Highlights: 15 km downhill, scenic variation: villages to farm land to bush, all in the space of 15km! Wilderness, camping out, sleeping under the stars, Maasai herdsmen, great food and as always, fantastic companions!

Distance covered total: 101 km

Distance covered mountain biking: 42 km

Accommodation: lightweight tents with mattresses & sheets, pillow, canvas water basin outside, bush shower, fly sheet and dinner around the campfire

 

The original plan was to give the option of doing the full 101 km on a bike, BUT everyone had partied hard the night before and so we selected to do the juciest bits instead.. The whole of Arusha and villages all the way to Usa River are on a plateau. Mt Meru, a dormant volcano that erupted last in 1910, has warped the land upward and sprewed vast amounts of lava to create the said plateau. So – that made for a great downhill and after a lot of procrastination and buying of essentials (beer) the riders mounted up and set off.

 

This style of riding is not overly tough – yes you can do the km’s but there is a support truck, bike mec, and guides to look after supplying snacks, rehydration salts and water. So, Juma, bike Mec, had the bikes all prepped for us. Great!

 

The first section was downhill. Coming off the Mt Meru plateau there was a combination of light peddling and then free wheeling downhill. Lots of cattle and goats made the way road a cluttered mosaic of dust and clunking cowbells. Fields, planted before the failed rains, now look rather dire. Failed rains, failed crops everywhere. Some bean farms seem to have survived though. Cycling down here it is obvious to see the importance of agriculture to the local economy and having lived here for over a decade, it’s also obvious the spread of agriculture is rapid, encroaching into areas that were once wilderness.

 

After crossing the Themi river, which was flowing and ridding Arusha of all it’s plastic bags by the looks of things, we soon found a resting point under a tree and waited for the landcruiser that was carrying our lunchboxes and the girls that had decided to skip riding.. And we waited. Thankfully Peter L had his tea making box in the support truck and we had plenty of bananas to cover us. An hour later it was obvious that to complete any riding today the bikes and support truck would have to go ahead and so riders were left stranded whilst we headed on to the next riding section. Lunch eventually arrived and the riders were picked up!

 

In the support truck we head out towards the western end of the ‘blue’ mountains, home to the famous Tanzanite mines. Our path did not cross anywhere near the mines but I hear these days it is possible to do mine tours with the likes of Tanzanite One. By now it was getting late and we all doubted very much if we could ride again today. Indeed by the time we reached Komolo and ascended the ridge to the starting point it was 5.45pm. The cruiser with the riders and non riders arrived right behind us and looking at Gunnar’s face (Mr ‘every kilometer on a bike is a good kilometer’), I knew we had to deliver another ride…

 

Off with the bikes from the top of the support truck, frantic assembly, Maasai crowding round at the spectacle, hats on, gloves on, water check and off! We had about 1 hour of riding left before total darkness and we were now very much at the edge of true wilderness. Add to that the fact the news that a pride of lions had been terrorising cattle in the village ahead, and we were definitely racing darkness and keeping checks on everyone. As the sun edged ever downward Pete K spotted our first game, a herd of Zebra to our right. Peter L completely missed them, thrasing his way up a hill!

 

What to do when darkness falls? Well traditional senses would have it that this was a perfect time to dismount. But, with a bunch of cyclists that had been coming on riding safaris with us for 7 years, that did not happen. 10km or so to go and darkness fell. The support truck followed closely and both Peter L and myself lead the pack keeping our eyes peeled for wildlife, and specifically the maurading lions.

 

“I see lights!” – the camp was spotted some 2 km away. Unbeknown to the group the camp was across bush and there certainly were no roads. As we stuttered across the bush Peter L made short work of finding a hole and did a fine kartwheel over the handle bars, our first ‘offie’. Single track was now the name of the game – let the first unfortunate person hit all the holes.. The support truck reverberated loudly a few times – 2 tracks will always find more holes than our single tread!

 

Finally in camp we received a warm welcome. Our friends at Dorobo Safaris are our partners on this section, and what a great camp they run. The layout was simple and all the essential were there. After a quick rehdyration it was time to tuck into some grub and beer (we always carry a cool box with ice..). Dinner was a really tasty curry, could hardly stop myself from eating. And not soon after we all retired. As was to become the custom, Peter L and myself bedded down by the fire, the crew in the Pyramid, everyone else in their dome tents and the snoring competition would begin.

 

At night time the bush is the best place to be. Contact calls of Hyena, the bark of a Jackal and the trill of a scops owl are noises I long to hear when in town and now, back in the bush, my nights sleep is frequently punctuated as I start awake looking around for nosey animals. No lion calls this night but Pete K, on route for a wee near his tent, spotted a hyena (indeed a spotted hyena at that), that scurried away.

 

Dawn crept over the eastern horizon, a perfect time to wake up, clean up, wander around. Kilimanjaro stood proud to the east. I’ve never seen such a pretty profile and with the soft light, it was literally breath taking. Meru, related to Kilimanjaro by the same fault system, looked down on us from the North and as the sun start to ascend the rosy red rich colours of the morning brought the rest of the camp to life.

 

Breakfast, if I remember rightly, was plenty of fresh fruits and some cereals. With the pretty vistas and morning light I preferred to photograph and film and then the sounds of cattle bells started in ernest – we had camped not more than 200 meters from a temporary boma. Time for some impromptu filming of cattle herding (Leboi our camp guard hepled me talk through the process and sort out the filming rights!) before finishing up with breakfast and a briefing.

 

It was now time to head out on our next day of cycling…

Camping and biking II

Camping Safari / Mountain biking

Mountain Biking Safari!

8 bikes, 6 guests, 1 safari vehicle and 1 landrover 101 Forward Control. 2 guides and 1 mechanic and then 1 Maasai boy, my apprentice. First stop, pick up the guests and do the briefing..

Mountain biking safaris in Tanzania are not new - my first trip was back in 2001. This one will be delving into new territories though: the greater Tarangire ecosystem where lots of wildlife is expected and so after completing our final recconnaisance last week, it's time to head out into the bush!